Little Red Nose Jacket by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket for babies and children with round yoke in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down, with Nordic pattern. Sizes 12 months – 12 years.
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM – for stocking stitch on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – for rib on sleeves.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole band is worked in red. In other words use 1 ball of red for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where red is not part of the pattern).
Change strand between band and yoke (so you do not get a change of strands outermost on band). When changing strands, twist the strands together so that the stitches stay together.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase on the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.6. In this example, decrease by alternately working together each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.), or increase alternately after each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.) by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over bands).
INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
First row is worked from the right side Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn, 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together stitches 2 and 3 from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1½-2 cm on the neck, then work the next 4 (5-5-5-6-6-7) buttonholes with approx. 6 (6-6½-7-6½-7-7) cm between each one.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked first and then divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
NECK:
Cast on 84 (88-92-96-100-108-112) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left and finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above and finish after a row from the right side.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7 (5-4-1-5-6-10) stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 77 (83-88-95-95-102-102) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row – NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches), work A.2 over the next stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187 (203-220-239-251-271-271) stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch, red and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194 (210-230-246-254-271-282) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches, work 52 (56-62-66-70-75-78) stitches (= back piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches and work the remaining 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece) = 122 (130-142-150-158-167-174) stitches.
BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32 (34-37-39-41-43-45) stitches in from each side (= 58 (62-68-72-76-81-84) stitches between marker threads on the back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front - remember BUTTONHOLES on right band. When the piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat this increase when the piece measures 8 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130 (138-150-158-166-175-182) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) stitches evenly on the next row from the right side (do not increase over bands) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2 / purl 2* work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Then cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jacket measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm, measured from shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48 (52-56-60-60-64-66) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with red. When the sleeve measures 1 cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 1½ (2-2-2½-3-3½-3½) cm a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. When the sleeve measures 10 (12-17-20-24-27-31) cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches evenly on round = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8 cm or to desired length.
On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 45 (50-50-55-55-60-60) stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm from where body and sleeve were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
NOSES:
Crochet with red and hook size 3 mm as follows: Work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 nose for each reindeer (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) noses). Tie the noses to each reindeer and fasten the strands.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.
-------------------------------------------------------
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
KNITTING TIP (for bands):
The whole band is worked in red. In other words use 1 ball of red for each band where needed (i.e. on the rows where red is not part of the pattern).
Change strand between band and yoke (so you do not get a change of strands outermost on band). When changing strands, twist the strands together so that the stitches stay together.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out when to decrease/increase on the row, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches), minus the bands (= 74 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 10.6. In this example, decrease by alternately working together each 9th and 10th stitch and each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.), or increase alternately after each 10th and 11th stitch (approx.) by making 1 yarn over (the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes – NOTE: Do not decrease/increase over bands).
INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Start 2 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
First row is worked from the right side Knit until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on row, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 8 (8-8-10-10-12-12) stitches left on the other side, turn, tighten strand and knit until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left, turn, tighten strand and purl until there are 16 (16-16-18-18-20-20) stitches left on other side. Continue by working 8 stitches less each time you turn, 2 more times in each side, turn, tighten strand and knit to end of row, then purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = start from the wrong side and knit together stitches 2 and 3 from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked after approx. 1½-2 cm on the neck, then work the next 4 (5-5-5-6-6-7) buttonholes with approx. 6 (6-6½-7-6½-7-7) cm between each one.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The yoke is worked first and then divided for sleeves and body. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
NECK:
Cast on 84 (88-92-96-100-108-112) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and red. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, in each side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left and finish with knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – read description above and finish after a row from the right side.
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and decrease 7 (5-4-1-5-6-10) stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (purl 2 stitches together = 1 stitch decreased) = 77 (83-88-95-95-102-102) stitches.
You can now work an elevation in back of neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck will then be the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above or continue working.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until there are 6 stitches left on the row – NOTE: Choose diagram for your size (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) repeats of 6 (6-7-7-7-7-7) stitches), work A.2 over the next stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram – read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.2 have been completed there are 187 (203-220-239-251-271-271) stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch, red and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 7 (7-10-7-3-0-11) stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 194 (210-230-246-254-271-282) stitches.
When the piece measures 13 (14-15-16-17-18-19) cm mid front (measured without the neck), divide the piece as follows: Work 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches, work 52 (56-62-66-70-75-78) stitches (= back piece), place the next 42 (46-50-54-54-58-60) stitches on 1 thread for sleeve (without working them), cast on 6 new stitches and work the remaining 29 (31-34-36-38-40-42) stitches as before (= front piece) = 122 (130-142-150-158-167-174) stitches.
BODY:
Insert 1 marker thread 32 (34-37-39-41-43-45) stitches in from each side (= 58 (62-68-72-76-81-84) stitches between marker threads on the back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front - remember BUTTONHOLES on right band. When the piece measures 3 cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat this increase when the piece measures 8 cm from where body and sleeves were divided = 130 (138-150-158-166-175-182) stitches. When the piece measures 11 (13-16-19-22-25-28) cm from where body and sleeves were divided, increase 14 (14-14-14-14-13-14) stitches evenly on the next row from the right side (do not increase over bands) = 144 (152-164-172-180-188-196) stitches.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2 / purl 2* work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Then cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The whole jacket measures approx. 34 (37-41-45-49-53-57) cm, measured from shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the one thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 48 (52-56-60-60-64-66) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 6 stitches (= mid under sleeve). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch in the round with red. When the sleeve measures 1 cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 1½ (2-2-2½-3-3½-3½) cm a total of 6 (6-8-8-8-8-9) times = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. When the sleeve measures 10 (12-17-20-24-27-31) cm from where body and sleeve were divided, decrease 2 stitches evenly on round = 36 (40-40-44-44-48-48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 8 cm or to desired length.
On the next round increase all purl 2 to purl 3 = 45 (50-50-55-55-60-60) stitches. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.. The sleeve measures a total of approx. 18 (20-25-28-32-35-39) cm from where body and sleeve were divided.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
NOSES:
Crochet with red and hook size 3 mm as follows: Work 4 chain stitches and 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 nose for each reindeer (= 11 (12-11-12-12-13-13) noses). Tie the noses to each reindeer and fasten the strands.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.
Diagram
 | = light brown |
 | = red |
 | = off white |
 | = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern stripe; work the yarn over twisted on the next row to avoid a hole |
Hiç yorum yok:
Yorum Gönder